Giorno 10 – 6 gennaio ’15 (Odessa-Kiev km 531)
Chissà se Papa Gregorio XIII avrebbe mai pensato che oltre quattro secoli dopo la sua riforma del calendario il mondo religioso sarebbe stato ancora diviso da quegli 11 giorni cancellati dal mese di ottobre del 1582. Quelle giornate sono diventate tredici col passare dei secoli grazie alle alchimie matematiche ed astronomiche che regolano il nuovo calendario. Ecco perché oggi in una parte d’Europa è il giorno dell’Epifania e in un’altra parte è la vigilia di Natale. Forse è proprio per questo che dopo giorni di tregua con temperature attorno allo zero il gelo è tornato a farci visita regalandoci numeri negativi in doppia cifra.
A Kiev già dalle prime ore del mattino il traffico è intenso e con fatica riusciamo a raggiungere una delle stazioni di rifornimento metano presenti nella tangenziale. La fila è decisamente lunga, considerando i 4 erogatori funzionanti su 8 e i vari camion in coda con noi. Comprendiamo che il rischio di passare il Natale in tangenziale potrebbe essere elevato. Ripartiamo privi del combustibile ecologico consapevoli che 70 chilometri a sud della città, lungo la autostrada per Odessa, c’è un altro punto di rifornimento. In realtà subito dopo aver lasciato Kiev vediamo caotici cartelli che indicano un nuovo metano a due chilometri dalla nuova strada. Con sorpresa abbiamo scoperto un nuovo punto di rifornimento, con operatore e quindi non self service, dove ci accolgono senza il particolare stupore che di solito contraddistingue l’arrivo di un’auto occidentale a metano. Neppure l’ottima guida di Oriano, edita recentemente, prevedeva questo distributore.
Il cammino verso Odessa prosegue senza intoppi significativi e possiamo anche apprezzare che la statua di Misha ubicata a sud di Kiev è in buone condizioni e non è stata nazionalizzata. I cartelli con colori giallo-blu diminuiscono sensibilmente rispetto alla strada che collega Kiev con l’ovest. La discesa verso sud prevede anche di entrare progressivamente nella parte di Ucraina dove si parla russo e dove la lingua di Taras Shevchenko può essere letta nei cartelli stradali, nei menù dei ristoranti, nelle istruzioni di un autolavaggio, ma non è parlata dalla maggioranza della popolazione. Andiamo verso una città che, contemporaneamente ai fatti di Maidan, ha visto la popolazione schierarsi in due modi diversi. C’è chi ha gioito per la cacciata di Yanukovich e ci sono coloro che guardano con simpatia al passaggio della penisola di Crimea alla Russia. Tra questi ultimi sono comprese alcune decine di persone, di cui ancora non si scoperto l’esatto numero, che hanno perso la vita il 2 maggio 2014 in un incendio dentro al palazzo dei sindacati ubicato nel centro della città. Le due parti si rimpallano la responsabilità dei fatti.
Dopo lo spuntino di tarda mattinata lasciamo l’autostrada per inoltrarci in un itinerario poco turistico, sempre che si possa parlare di turismo da queste parti. Dobbiamo raggiungere dei campi di grano situati nei pressi del confine tra le provincie di Kirovgrad e Mykolaiev. Dodici piani sotto il livello della campagna c’è un museo davvero particolare. Trattasi di una postazione missilistica a medio raggio, ovvero dei silos sotterranei dove erano nascosti missili nucleari destinati all’Europa occidentale in caso di guerra atomica tra le due superpotenze dell’epoca. E’ possibile visitare sia i silos, sia vedere grandi missili “Satan” stesi in orizzontale sopra i campi innevati e l’affascinante sala-bunker di controllo nella profondità della terra. Raggiunta la sala con i vecchi ascensori di epoca sovietica è possibile sedersi vicino al telefono un tempo collegato con Mosca e far finta di prepararsi a premere il bottone che avrebbe contribuito a far terminare la vita sul pianeta Terra. Peccato che queste emozioni che avremmo voluto vivere non siano realmente avvenute. Non ci riferiamo alla terza guerra mondiale, ma alla visita della base missilistica di Pervomaisk resa impossibile dalla tanta neve ben distribuita nella stradina che collega la strada statale con il museo. Prima di provare a valutare se rischiare di tentare un passaggio proviamo a fare il tragitto mancante a piedi nonostante il freddo pungente. Ci sono tratti percorribili, ma altri con circa mezzo metro di neve accumulato dal vento.
Il senso di responsabilità che dobbiamo avere nei confronti di coloro che ci hanno messo a disposizione il veicolo e permesso di fare questo viaggio ci costringe a desistere. Il museo sarebbe anche aperto, ci conferma via telefono un addetto alle visite, ma l’unico modo per arrivarci sarebbe un carro armato o un fuoristrada molto alto. Percorrere un chilometro e mezzo a piedi all’andata e un altro al ritorno lasciando il veicolo lontano da qualsiasi parcheggio sicuro non è una buona idea. Sconfitti ripartiamo in direzione Odessa consapevoli che qualche centinaio di metri hanno momentaneamente fermato un viaggio di quasi 3.000 km.
Per tornare verso l’autostrada dobbiamo percorrere circa cinquanta chilometri nella strada internazionale che collega il centro dell’Ucraina con la capitale moldava Chisinau. La strada non è stata pulita di recente e l’alternarsi di crateri sull’asfalto con cumuli di neve rischia di rovinare l’atmosfera natalizia che c’è a bordo dell’Expert grazie alle radio locali che ci bombardano di canzoni natalizie in lingua russa.
Gli ultimi cento chilometri sarebbero di ottima strada, ma la neve che il vento trasporta dai vicini campi rallenta la nostra corsa. Nel frattempo abbiamo la fortuna di ascoltare gli auguri per un felice Natale a reti radio unificate da parte del Presidente Petro Poroshenko.
Arriviamo ad Odessa nel tardo pomeriggio prendendo alloggio all’Hotel Oktybrskaya.
L’ingresso in città è stato caratterizzato da due sorprese molto diverse tra loro. La prima riguarda l’enorme quantitativo di neve presente in tutta Odessa e che limita tutte le possibilità di parcheggio oltre che rischiare di farci rompere qualche articolazione quando proviamo a camminare in centro. La seconda è il fatto che il parcheggio privato del nostro albergo è una base dei paramilitari di Pravy Sektor, una dei gruppi più attivi, e in alcuni casi anche violenti, del nazionalismo ucraino.
Serata nel centro cittadino aspettando la mezzanotte cercando di capire cosa accade durante la veglia del Natale ortodosso.
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