Kiev, una capitale in movimento.

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Giorno 9 – 5 gennaio 2105

Per la prima volta ci regaliamo una giornata completamente a chilometri zero ampiamente meritata dopo l’intensità dell’esperienza vissuta a Chernobyl. Il glorioso Peugeot Expert metanizzato Bigas-Cavagna può godersi qualche ora di pace nella tranquillità e sicurezza del parcheggio dell’Hotel Slavutich. Ci incamminiamo verso la stazione della metropolitana da dove testeremo l’efficienza ed efficacia della rete di trasporto urbano cittadino, considerata dagli abitanti della capitale la più economica del mondo. Un gettone per entrare nelle tre linee ferroviarie sotterranee costa circa 10 centesimi di euro, mentre l’autobus addirittura 15! In entrambi i casi non ci sono limiti orari, quindi in situazione di freddo intenso si può vagare nelle stazioni anche per ore. Purtroppo, con la svalutazione della moneta locale, anche qui si prevedono aumenti nelle prossime settimane, forse addirittura raddoppio delle tariffe.

Appuntamento in Piazza Maidan con l’amica Yaryna che abbiamo avuto modo di conoscere, grazie alle sue interessanti corrispondenze in lingua italiana, durante la rivoluzione di quasi un anno fa. A dire il vero è la prima volta che ci incontriamo di persona, ma dopo le tante mail scambiate in passato ci sembra di conoscerla da sempre. Yaryna sarà la nostra guida per la giornata odierna, ed essendo lei stessa protagonista della rivolta di Kiev, ci darà modo di ascoltare i fatti e visitare i luoghi con una reale testimone dell’accaduto.

Maidan Nezalezhnosti, che in realtà significa Piazza dell’Indipendenza, è il cuore pulsante della città. Si sviluppa su due piani: quello sotterraneo ospita negozi, sottopassaggi e la profondissima stazione della metropolitana, quello superiore fontane, cupole di vetro, statue, palazzi giganteschi ed è sovrastata dalla mole dell’Hotel Ucraina. Crocevia di molte delle strade più importanti della città, ha ospitato le più grandi manifestazioni popolari di rivolta. Le più famose sono la fallita “Rivoluzione Arancione” del 2004 e l’insurrezione che ha portato alla deposizione di Viktor Yanukovich tra novembre 2013 e febbraio 2014. La piazza fu occupata durante una manifestazione nata quando l’ex presidente rifiutò di firmare l’atto che avrebbe avviato trattative con l’Unione Europea per un avvicinamento dello stato slavo alle istituzioni comunitarie. La politica di Yanukovich guardava verso il rafforzamento dei legami con la Russia, ma la cosa non era in linea con il pensiero della maggioranza della popolazione, almeno qui a Kiev e nella parte occidentale del Paese. Incidenti tra manifestanti e forze dell’ordine si susseguirono per settimane, ma l’intensità più drammatica si ebbe in febbraio quando negli scontri, anche armati, rimasero prive di vita quasi cento persone. Parte di questi furono colpiti da cecchini ed ancora oggi non è stato chiarito chi fu a sparare. Tutte le colpe, anche per comodità e per non toccare i nuovi interessi scaturiti dal post-rivoluzione, sono state affibbiate all’ex Presidente che a sua volta è scappato in Russia. In sostanza, ad oggi, non esiste una o più persone che abbiano fatto almeno un giorno di galera per la morte dei manifestanti. La parte meridionale della piazza, rialzata rispetto a tutta la zona circostante, è ricca di foto degli eventi di Maidan, fiori e candele a ricordo dei defunti. Anche il muro di via Instytutska ospita un ricordo di chi non c’è più. Una lunga fila di fotografie con nomi, cognomi e provenienza permette di vedere le facce, non solo giovani, dei martiri della rivoluzione. Si prosegue il cammino, sempre con le preziose notizie fornite da Yaryna, fino all’ingresso dello stadio della Dinamo Kiev, uno dei punti dove la violenza raggiunse i livelli più intensi nel mese di febbraio ’14. In questo luogo, vero tempio dello sport, si può scorgere anche il monumento al grande allenatore Valerij Lobanovs’kyj, plurivincitore di coppe e scudetti sia in epoca sovietica che in periodo ucraino . Sullo stesso sito è presente anche un memoriale dedicato ai calciatori della Dinamo che durante la seconda guerra mondiale dovettero giocare una partita, prima contro i soldati tedeschi e poi contro una rappresentativa calcistica vera e propria della Germania nazista. La loro ostinazione a non far vincere sul campo l’invasore, nella celebre “Partita della Morte”, costò la vita a molti componenti della squadra. Questo episodio ha ispirato il film “Fuga per la Vittoria” del 1981 con protagonista anche Pelè in veste di attore. Nel film i protagonisti diventano stranamente prigionieri occidentali e l’ambientazione è in un campo di prigionia ben lontano da Kiev.

Nel quartiere mercantile di Podil giunge il momento del pranzo presso un ristorante georgiano dove assaporiamo ottimi piatti a base di formaggio bagnati con il prestigioso vino della regione di Kakheti.

Davanti alle prelibatezze caucasiche abbiamo modo di conoscere meglio Yaryna e il suo amore per l’Italia, paese che ha visitato più volte e del quale ha voluto approfondire la lingua, una delle quattro che parla regolarmente. La nostra amica ha lavorato nel mondo del cinema e collabora con giornalisti ucraini e soprattutto esteri, ma il suo principale obiettivo e la letteratura, settore nel quale ha grandi progetti. Non è un caso che ci proponga un brindisi per l’odierno compleanno di Umberto Eco, autore sul quale ha sviluppato la sua tesi di laurea.

Per completare la visita di ieri a Chernobyl decidiamo di visitare il museo che Kiev ha dedicato alla tragedia nucleare. La scalinata che conduce al piano superiore dell’edificio museale è sovrastata dai cartelli di ingresso alle città e paesi evacuati nei giorni successivi all’incidente. La nostra accompagnatrice ci fa notare i nomi dei paesi vicini a quello dove vive la sua famiglia. Yaryna ci svela che quel 26 aprile c’era anche lei a circa 70 chilometri dalla centrale, seppure sarebbe nata solo tre mesi dopo in un villaggio al confine con la Moldavia dove avevano traferito i suoi genitori. Chernobyl, per alcuni dei giovani più intraprendenti tra quelli che facevano vacanze estive nei paesi occidentali, è stata anche un’opportunità vantaggiosa. Molti hanno imparato la lingua del luogo dove facevano vacanze o hanno avuto il sostegno di una famiglia occidentale grazie al quale hanno potuto realizzare progetti di vita.

Le famiglie italiane, in quel periodo, sono state tra le più generose, ed in una famiglia trentina ha passato numerosi estati anche la nostra Yaryna.

Dal quartiere di Podil ci incamminiamo attraverso l’acciottolata e pittoresca salita di Sant’Andrea fino alla parte più alta della città. La chiesa dedicata al primo predicatore cristiano in queste terre, proprio Andrea, fu costruita dal grande Bartolomeo Rastrelli, lo stesso che realizzò il Palazzo d’Inverno a San Pietroburgo. Negozi turistici e storici palazzi fanno da cornice ad una delle strade più note di Kiev. Tra coloro che abitarono qui non possiamo non ricordare lo scrittore Mikhail Bulgakov. La sua casa museo è visitabile. Nella piazza davanti alla cattedrale ortodossa di Santa Sofia abbiamo modo di attraversare i mercatini di Natale molto simili a quelli che si trovano in Baviera o in Tirolo. Il fermento è quello tipico dei giorni precedenti alle feste natalizie che, secondo il calendario giuliano adottato dalla chiesa ortodossa, raggiungeranno il culmine tra il 6 e il 7 gennaio.

Non possiamo che concludere la lunga e fredda passeggiata con un transito notturno in Piazza Maidan per poi rifugiarsi in un locale sotterraneo, forse meno elegante di quelli vicini alla nota piazza, ma decisamente più interessante ed accogliente.

Beviamo qualcosa di caldo e ceniamo con tipici piatti ucraini arricchiti dagli interessanti racconti di Yaryna. Neppure dopo un’intera giornata ad ascoltarla, riesce a stancarci o ad annoiarci.

Tanto rispetto per questa giovane ragazza che ha le idee chiare su quello che vorrebbe per la sua Nazione e che con determinazione ci fa comprendere come il percorso di cambiamento non sia finito con la rivoluzione, ma semmai appena cominciato. Nuove persone dovranno vigilare in modo che i vecchi manipolatori stiano lontano dai posti chiave dell’apparato politico. L’idea di sfruttare le sue capacità per trasferirsi all’estero non gli passa dalla testa, del resto qui c’è da ricostruire un Paese.

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