Natale al freddo e al gelo

di

Giorno 11 – 7 gennaio 2015

Quando si viaggia in queste parti d’Europa è necessario tenere in seria condizione le previsioni del tempo. Per questo motivo da alcuni giorni ci eravamo convinti di fare una sosta ad Odessa almeno un giorno intero per evitare di cominciare il viaggio di ritorno in condizioni meteo proibitive.

La giornata più fredda del viaggio è oggi, la temperatura minima è quasi venti sotto zero e la massima non si avvicina a meno dieci nonostante il cielo sereno e il sole che splende sopra le nostre teste. Se consideriamo che la città è letteralmente piena di neve e che tutto il fondo stradale è una lastra di ghiaccio, sarà perfettamente comprensibile il motivo della nostra prudenza. Anche passeggiare per la città diventa un’impresa da equilibristi complicata ancora di più dalle raffiche di vento che arrivano dal Mar Nero.

La città si sviluppa su una lunga rupe che si eleva fino ad un massimo di 50 metri rispetto al mare. La parte più alta di Odessa si collega al porto attraverso strade e grazie al monumento che ha reso celebre questo luogo: la scalinata Potemkin.

La cinematografia ha immortalato questo manufatto in due celebri film di cui uno noto al pubblico di tutto il mondo e del quale ricorre quest’anno il novantesimo anniversario. L’altro film è conosciuto solo in Italia e trattasi de “Il secondo tragico Fantozzi” di Luciano Salce. “La Corazzata Potemkin”, capolavoro di Sergej Eisenstein, vede la scena più nota del film ambientata lungo questa scalinata progettata da un russo ed un italiano nei primi anni del XIX secolo.

Non riusciamo a contemplare il monumento, ma neppure l’orribile porto che si è sviluppato alla base, a causa del vento gelido che soffia in questa parte esposta della città. Ci rifugiamo in un caffè per la necessità di recuperare il calore corporeo perso. Odessa è una città giovane, fondata nel 1794, ma allo stesso tempo antica essendo scampata alle distruzioni della Seconda Guerra Mondiale, cosa piuttosto rara visto che molte altre grandi città ucraine sono state rase al suolo durante gli scontri tra tedeschi e sovietici. Per la popolazione ebraica di Odessa, che fino al 1941 era una delle principali comunità cittadine, il periodo bellico si sovrappose con una deportazione sistematica.

Esclusa la scalinata non esistono importanti monumenti, ma allo stesso tempo è una città bella con molti edifici ottocenteschi e con una vitalità impressionante. Palazzi, chiese ortodosse, giardini, viali alberati, strade in pietra e le rinomate spiagge estive fanno di Odessa una meta molto turistica. Come abbiamo avuto modo di ricordare quando siamo arrivati qui, questa è una città dove si parla russo e dove nell’ultimo anno sono avvenuti episodi di grandissima tensione. La visita al Palazzo dei Sindacati, dove sono morte circa 50 persone lo scorso 2 maggio, è uno dei momenti più toccanti della giornata natalizia. Davanti al palazzo, che è transennato e sembrerebbe sotto sequestro, ci sono le foto e tanti fiori a ricordo di coloro che sono morti nell’incendio doloso alla struttura. La dinamica di questo episodio non è chiara. L’unica cosa certa è che coloro i quali hanno cercato rifugio nell’edificio, al centro di un’enorme piazza nei pressi della stazione ferroviaria, sono rimasti bloccati all’interno e non hanno avuto scampo. Quasi tutti i morti appartengono allo schieramento filorusso. Anche in questo caso, almeno fino ad oggi, non ci sono colpevoli per la strage. Particolare curioso è che tutto lo spazio circostante ospita i camion che raccolgono la neve dal centro cittadino. Di fatto la piazza si è trasformata in una discarica di ghiaccio.

Nel corso della giornata natalizia facciamo una visita anche alla Cattedrale Preobrazhensky (della Transfigurazione) ricostruita nello stesso sito dove fu demolita negli anni ’30. Vista l’importanza della festività di oggi la chiesa pullula di fedeli che, oltre a pregare ed accendere candele, donano alimenti e bevande su due tavoli dei quali uno è dedicato ai monaci e l’altro ai poveri.

Prima di dedicarci al pranzo di Natale in uno dei ristoranti più tipici del centro cittadino, abbiamo ancora il tempo di fare delle foto con Babbo Natale e assistente visto che qui le feste non sono ancora terminate. L’episodio avviene sotto gli attenti occhi delle statue di Puskin e di Caterina la Grande situate tra il comune e il grande teatro cittadino. La statua della zarina ha preso qualche anno fa il posto di quella dedicata agli ammutinati della corazzata più famosa del mondo. I marinai, ad oggi, sono scesi nella parte bassa della città a fare la guardia al porto. Anche questa delocalizzazione ha creato strascichi polemici in città visto che la zarina è un personaggio caro alla popolazione russa, ma non agli ucraini che avrebbero preferito che i marinai restassero nel loro sito originale.

Il nostro menù di Natale prevede Borsh ucraino, carni con patate, pesanti dolci tipici, vino della Crimea, il tutto accompagnato dalle piacevoli canzoni dello storico gruppo di musica tradizionale in lingua ucraina “Chervona Ruta” (fiore rosso). Il pranzo è talmente abbondante da costituire un pasto unico per l’intera giornata. Anche a Natale molti dei negozi in centro sono aperti e se non fosse per le banche chiuse sembrerebbe quasi un giorno feriale. Il Natale non è molto diverso dal solito per i numerosi senza tetto che rovistano nei bidoni della spazzatura lungo le stradine che collegano il centro cittadino al nostro albergo.

Meriterebbe un significativo premio la figurante che interpreta la Madonna nel presepe vivente ospitato davanti ai giardini pubblici nell’isola pedonale. Dopo la fuga di San Giuseppe e dopo che Gesù Bambino è stato sostituito da un bambolotto, l’unica figura umana a far compagnia al bue e l’asinello, anch’essi reali, è proprio lei nonostante la proibitiva temperatura.

Ci prepariamo a lasciare Odessa con la preoccupazione che in questa città, dove la tensione tra gli esponenti più facinorosi dei due gruppi etnici è percepibile, possa trasformarsi in un futuro non troppo lontano in un nuovo luogo di tensione tra Russia ed Ucraina. Confidiamo nel buon senso di una popolazione che ha saputo evitare la distruzione della propria città in più occasioni, dalla Guerra di Crimea alla Seconda Guerra Mondiale.

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