Ad Auschwitz c’era la neve…

di

29 Dicembre 2014 – Seconda tappa Trnava-Łańcut  (582 chilometri)

Latitudine e longitudine, accompagnate da un cielo particolarmente nuvoloso, fanno in modo che quando ci svegliamo sia ancora buio. Poco male, visto che dal sesto piano dell’hotel Inka l’alba da un est parzialmente sgombro da nubi permette di rendere piacevoli anche i palazzoni a nove piani che si vedono dalla nostra terrazza. La città di Trnava al lunedì è particolarmente operosa e tutti si riversano nelle strade verso i luoghi di lavoro. Qualche migliaia di persone si recano ogni giorno presso gli enormi stabilimenti di Peugeot e Citroen che sorgono alla periferia di questa cittadina. Anche noi non possiamo fare a meno di recarci in pellegrinaggio presso gli stabilimenti dove nascono le sorelle del nostro Peugeot Expert.

I viaggi sono fatti anche di incontri con persone difficili da scordare, una di queste è la signora Maria che ieri sera ci ha accolto in tarda serata e stamattina ci ha salutato con grande vitalità nonostante una notte di lavoro e una età non troppo giovane. Maria non parla inglese e ci siamo intesi mescolando tedesco, serbo e russo. Nonostante tutto il risultato è stato positivo al punto che ci ha regalato sorrisi ed una bottiglia di pseudochampagne slovacco. Chissà da quanti anni questa signora è al servizio prima dello stato cecoslovacco, poi slovacco ed infine di qualche privato che ha rilevato lo storico Hotel Inka.

La moderna, e libera da neve, autostrada slovacca ci permette di raggiungere Zilina in poco meno di due ore ammirando interessanti rovine di castelli lungo l’intero percorso. A Zilina facciamo il nostro unico rifornimento di metano in terra slovacca, nazione ricca di una decina di distributori ben posti negli itinerari strategici e tutti rigorosamente self service con pagamento tramite carta di credito. Senza l’aiuto di una ragazza di passaggio che parlava italiano non saremmo venuti a capo del problematico rifornimento che si è concluso senza effettuare il pieno del nostro serbatoio vista la bassa pressione di erogazione del metano (prezzo del metano Euro 1,18 al kg). Il tutto nel gelo assoluto e circondati da decine di centimetri di neve.

Ripartenza con l’unico valico di giornata che prevede di scavalcare le propaggini occidentali dei Monti Tatra passando dalla Slovacchia alla Repubblica Ceca per poi entrare in Polonia. Non si toccano grandi altitudini ma incontriamo di nuovo una nevicata che rallenta ulteriormente il nostro cammino verso la prestigiosa tappa di Bielsko-Biala dove non ci lasciamo scappare l’occasione di una foto davanti agli stabilimenti Fiat Polonia. All’ennesima fotografia esce la custode che ci interroga con fare poliziesco sulle nostre intenzioni. Riusciamo a cavarcela raccontando della Fiat Abarth campione del mondo FIA Energie Alternative nata proprio in questo stabilimento.

Su strette stradine di campagna sufficientemente pulite da ghiaccio e neve si percorre gli ultimi trenta chilometri fino alla meta più toccante della giornata: i due campi di concentramento di Auschwitz e Birkenau ubicati nella poco ridente cittadina di Oswiecim. Non è la prima volta che visitiamo questo storico e tragico luogo, ma le volte precedenti siamo passati sempre nel periodo estivo. D’inverno è tutta un’altra cosa, sembra un’affermazione banale ma è terribilmente vero. Neve ovunque, freddo gelido, temperatura di cinque-sei gradi sotto lo zero e qualche fiocco di neve che timidamente cade in modo democratico su baracche, case in mattoni, torrette di guardia e filo spinato. Un raggio di sole illumina i binari di Birkenau, solo per un attimo, mentre facciamo le foto di rito. Manca meno di un mese al 27 gennaio, il giorno dell’inverno del 1945 che i soldati dell’Armata Rossa raggiunsero questo luogo prima che i nazisti potessero eliminare le tracce dei massacri. Visitiamo proprio una mostra organizzata dalla Federazione Russa che raccoglie le testimonianze originali dei primi soldati che arrivarono qui. Sono esposte cineprese e macchine fotografiche d’epoca e relativi filmati e foto originali. L’orrore di vedere persone perse che non sanno neppure sorridere davanti alla fuga dei carnefici e l’arrivo dei liberatori è nelle facce di tutti i superstiti.

In cinque anni di “attività” in questo luogo sono morte oltre un milione di persone, prevalentemente di origine ebraica, ma pure zingari, prigionieri politici, omosessuali, intellettuali.

L’altra faccia di Oswiecim è il dover continuare a vivere nonostante il peso storico dei principali memoriali che gravitano sulla città. Il centro cittadino è piccolo, ma il fatto di trovarsi a pochi chilometri dalla meravigliosa Cracovia e da Wadowice, il luogo dove è nato Giovanni Paolo II, ha portato a questa realtà uno sviluppo economico impensabile. Tra i tanti centri commerciali, noti fast food internazionali, ristoranti e alberghi, non possiamo non notare la Pizzeria Ristorante “Del Papa” (non un cognome, ma davvero dedicato al Pontefice!) proprio di fronte all’ingresso del campo di Auschwitz.

La periferia di Cracovia ospita l’ultimo rifornimento di metano della giornata, non più a self service ma con l’operatore che oltre a fare il suo lavoro ci intrattiene con domande sull’impianto Bigas-Cavagna installato sul nostro veicolo. Il prezzo, in linea con la tradizione dell’europa orientale è di circa mezzo euro a metro cubo. Attenzione metro cubo e non Chilogrammo. Per la cronaca sia benzina che diesel in Polonia sono poco al di sotto dell’euro, mentre il gpl gravita attorno ai 50 centesimi.

Dalla tangenziale di Cracovia alla città di Rzeszow c’è una modernissima autostrada costruita in occasione degli europei di calcio del 2012 organizzati da Polonia ed Ucraina, e non a caso questa è una delle direttrici più trafficate tra le due nazioni. Peccato che assieme alla bella autostrada si scateni una nuova tempesta di neve che porta la nostra andatura media a scendere attorno ai 50 chilometri orari. Decidiamo di continuare il cammino per fare in modo che nella giornata di domani restino meno chilometri da fare e che il tempo guadagnato possa servire in caso di lungaggini burocratiche nella temibile dogana polacco-ucraina, che ormai dista meno di 200 chilometri.

La sosta di fine giornata avviene nei pressi del paesino di Łańcut ben fornito di alberghetti e ristoranti per viaggiatori stanchi. Camere pulite e un ottimo gulash al piccolo Hotel Gosciniec lungo la strada statale che ha appena preso il posto dell’autostrada non finita di costruire. Del resto gli europei di calcio ormai sono passati…

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