Ritorno da Volgograd – Giorno 5

di

A Dracula non piace il metano!
Completato l’attraversamento della Romania senza rifornimenti ecologici.

Dopo un’indispensabile dormita nella tranquilla città di Galati, nell’Est rumeno, ci attiviamo per sbrigare le pratiche burocratiche indispensabili per attraversare regolarmente tale stato. Ci aggiriamo nel quartiere del nostro hotel in cerca di una banca o un cambiavalute, ma incredibilmente troviamo tutto chiuso, perché in Romania sia il primo gennaio che il secondo giorno dell’anno sono festivi. L’amara scoperta ci complica la vita visto che per recuperare dei Lei rumeni dobbiamo chiedere aiuto alla gentilissima “portiera” dell’albergo. Ora che siamo pieni di valuta rumena, l’unica in Europa ad essere plastifica ed antistrappo, paghiamo i sei euro di tassa stradale e ci incamminiamo per la lunga giornata che ci vedrà attraversare da est ad ovest la Romania.
Sotto le ruote del nostro Iveco Daily passano i chilometri e le città di Braila e Slobozia fino all’autostrada che collega la riviera del Mar Nero alla capitale Bucarest. C’è da dire che negli ultimi anni la nazione rumena ha fatto grandi progressi riguardo alla manutenzione delle strade. La piccola tassa stradale, per una volta, l’abbiamo pagata volentieri. L’asfalto è in buone condizioni, l’unica attenzione è rivolta ai carretti trainati da animali che sono onnipresenti e ai cani randagi che attraversano la strada sia in paese che in aperta campagna.
Poco prima di Bucarest terminiamo il metano caricato ad Odessa. Purtroppo non esiste la possibilità di rifornirsi in Romania, unico stato balcanico a non avere distributori di metano (contrariamente al gpl, presente lungo tutte le arterie principali al prezzo di circa 70 centesimi di euro). Non è comprensibile perché nella vicina Bulgaria ci siano centinaia di stazioni di rifornimento, in Serbia una decina, tre in Ungheria, numerose in Moldavia ed Ucraina, mentre qui non esista traccia del metano. A causa di questa mancanza saremo costretti a proseguire fino a Belgrado, circa seicento chilometri, utilizzando solo il gasolio. In ogni caso sarà un test sui consumi interessante visto che cercheremo di procedere con una guida finalizzata al massimo risparmio.
Come al solito, invece che girare intorno alla capitale rumena, decidiamo di attraversarla da parte a parte con due soste. La prima è nei pressi dello Stadio Nazionale dove vive la nostra carissima amica Viorica che, vista l’ora, ci offre un ottimo pranzetto. Viorica è una nostra antica conoscenza e grande amante dell’Italia che ha visitato più volte. Ci tratteniamo oltre un’ora apprezzando ancora una volta la sua grande gentilezza, visto che per l’ennesima volta ci offre la sua ospitalità. Viorica è sempre stata un importante appoggio logistico per la riuscita delle nostre avventure.
La seconda sosta è subito dopo la ripartenza, nei pressi del grande palazzone che oggi ospita il Parlamento rumeno. Il nome originale è “Casa Poporului” e fu costruito nell’epoca comunista come tutto il quartiere circostante; attualmente è la struttura più grande d’Europa, seconda al mondo solo al Pentagono. Mentre facciamo le foto di rito molti operai stanno smontando il palco della festa di capodanno. Non è la prima volta che incontriamo il palazzo che molti legano alla figura di Nicolai Ceausescu, ma in ogni occasione non si può non rimanere stupiti della imponenza del manufatto.
Secondo Wikipedia misura 270 metri per 240, è alto 86 metri e affonda per altri 92 nel sottosuolo della collina che lo ospita.
Sempre con facilità lasciamo Bucarest proseguendo verso Pitesti, con ulteriori cento chilometri di ottima autostrada. A Pitesti, città che ospita la storica fabbrica della casa automobilistica Dacia, oggi di proprietà della Renault, termina l’autostrada per lasciare spazio ad una statale che ci conduce verso Craiova. Nel frattempo scende l’oscurità e come al solito la parte terminale della giornata è maggiormente difficoltosa. Raggiungiamo di nuovo il Danubio, stavolta al limite occidentale della Romania nei pressi di Dobreta Turnu Severin. A monte della grande città rumena sorge la grande diga delle Porte di Ferro, struttura costruita negli anni ’70 dalle autorità jugoslave e rumene laddove il grande fiume fa da confine. A monte della diga il Danubio è cresciuto di 35 metri diventando navigabile fino oltre Belgrado, mentre a valle le grandi turbine producono energia idroelettrica per entrambi gli stati. Proprio tra la città rumena di Dobreta Turnu Severin e quella serba di Kladovo sorgeva il Ponte di Traiano, capolavoro militare costruito dal progettista Apollodoro di Damasco. La struttura servì per invadere la Tracia e ancora oggi sono visibili i pilastri nei pressi delle due sponde.
Tuttora non è chiaro come le tecniche di costruzione dell’epoca abbiano permesso ai romani di compiere questo miracolo architettonico.
L’ultima fatica della giornata è attraversare la dogana rumeno-serba situata sopra la diga che funge anche da ponte sul Danubio. Neppure dieci minuti di controlli da parte delle due polizie e possiamo rimettere le lancette dell’orologio sull’ora italiana. Decidiamo di alloggiare a Kladovo nell’unico albergo aperto in questa stagione poco turistica. Vicino al parcheggio dell’hotel notiamo la spiaggia e gli ombrelloni, segno di come durante la stagione calda Kladovo diventi una località balneare.
Piccola ma ricca di locali, la strategica città serba, che riesce a deliziarci con un menù di carne ad ottimo prezzo e birre montenegrine decisamente gustose.
C’è da registrare che nella giornata di oggi il termometro non è mai sceso sotto lo zero e che non abbiamo incontrato neppure uno schizzo di neve o di ghiaccio. Non sembra neppure inverno!

40 commenti su “Ritorno da Volgograd – Giorno 5”

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