Ritorno a Volgograd – Giorni 1&2

Attraversamento dei Carpazi in Ucraina

Venerdì 13 è una data che si ricorda bene: per molti è un giorno portatore di malasorte, per altri una combinazione fortunata. Per noi dell’associazione Torino-Pechino è la giornata dell’ennesima partenza per un viaggio all’insegna di ecologia, solidarietà e un pizzico di avventura. Già l’ampia partecipazione alla conferenza stampa organizzata presso la sede della Piccini Impianti è un ottimo risultato, ed oltre alle testate giornalistiche di Sansepolcro e della parte toscana ed umbra della vallata sono presenti anche gli amici Monica e Nicola di Ecomotori, arrivati da Milano proprio per noi.

Dopo i pieni di metano e gasolio presso la stazione di rifornimento “Piccini”, alle ore 12 ha inizio il lungo cammino che porterà l’Iveco Daily fino alla lontana Volgograd. La prima sosta è già a Forlì, per caricare i regali di Natale che i responsabili della Comunità Giovanni XXIII e i familiari del gestore del centro di Volgograd Marco Giovannetti hanno preparato per riempire ancora di più il nostro furgone della solidarietà.
All’interno del Daily non ci sono però solo regali, ma pure capi di abbigliamento pesanti per i senzatetto, messi a disposizione dalla BMA di Marcello Brizzi e da “Io vivo in Toscana” di Nicola Cestelli. A tutto questo si aggiungono vini e vettovaglie sempre per le festività della succursale di Volgograd dell’associazione di volontariato.

Nicola e Monica ci scortano fino a Bologna, e dopo i saluti di rito puntiamo dritti verso il nord attraversando la pianura Padana. Primo riferimento per i nostri consumi è il distributore di metano di Porto Marghera. Confrontando telematicamente i nostri dati con quelli di Andrea Mercati, detto Toro, l’uomo che ci ha preso in custodia per conto della Piccini Impianti, già possiamo notare come il nostro stile di guida sobrio e attento al risparmio di energia abbia fatto registrare una sostanziale parità tra il consumo di gasolio e metano.

Sotto le nostre ruote scorrono gli ultimi chilometri d’Italia alternando la nebbia del Veneto e del basso Friuli al cielo stellato della Carnia e del Tarvisiano. Il secondo rifornimento è in terra austriaca, nella capitale della Carinzia Klagenfurt. Si tratta del primo test per il nostro adattatore che rende l’attacco del sistema italiano compatibile con quello europeo. In Austria troviamo la benzina a circa 1,50 euro, il gasolio a 1,45, il metano a 1,06 a metro cubo e il gpl a 0,9 al litro
Nei pressi di Graz tocchiamo il chilometro numero 730 e subito dopo, in mezzo ad una terribile nebbia che ci delizierà per l’intera notte, siamo in Ungheria. La cattiva visibilità ci dà tregua solo dentro Budapest, che attraversiamo alle 4 del mattino: qui ci riforniamo per la terza volta di metano e gasolio presso il distributore, a dire il vero non logisticamente comodissimo, situato al di là del ponte sul Danubio, che abbiamo attraversato in pieno centro cittadino, a quell’ora deserto. I prezzi ungheresi sono pressoché identici a quelli austriaci, e in entrambi i Paesi rifornirsi fuori dall’autostrada significa spendere anche 20 centesimi in meno al litro su benzina e gasolio.

All’orizzonte appaiono le luci dell’alba e la notte di guida, oltre alla fastidiosa nebbia, si avvia alla conclusione. Facciamo colazione nei pressi del confine tra Ungheria e Ucraina, per poi apprestarci ad intraprendere le operazioni doganali con un pizzico di ansia, vista la grande mole di cose che popolano il retro del Daily. Pochi minuti sono sufficienti per soddisfare la curiosità della polizia ungherese, non troppo interessata a ciò che portiamo fuori dall’Unione Europea. Eccoci oltre il ponte sul fiume Tisa, storico confine un tempo tra magiari e sovietici, oggi tra magiari e ucraini. Siamo nelle grinfie della polizia della giovane repubblica: polizia che in passato ci ha più di una volta creato problemi, arrivando pure ad estorcerci piccole somme. Stavolta abbiamo a che fare con personale giovane e capace di parlare addirittura italiano! Aprono scatoloni per verificare il contenuto, ma la rassicurazione che tutto quello che vedono andrà in Russia e non in Ucraina serve a facilitare le cose. I doganieri sono molto colpiti e forse affascinati dal nostro cinghiale Bruno e dalla mascotte aggiunta “Čeburaška”, personaggio molto popolare nell’ex Urss e che abbiamo sia   in versione pupazzo che come adesivo sul furgone.

Passiamo il confine in appena un’ora, a cui va aggiunta quella persa a causa del fuso orario.
Dopo lo scalo ferroviario di Čop, e dopo aver constatato il cambio dell’alfabeto nella cartellonistica stradale, con il cirillico che sostituisce o affianca il carattere latino, si entra a Užhorod, cittadina di medie dimensioni e posto di frontiera con la vicina Slovacchia. Raggiungiamo uno dei due distributori di metano nella “tangenziale” e in meno di 24 ore ci apprestiamo a fare rifornimento con il terzo sistema di aggancio al veicolo differente. Qui si usa quello “sovietico”, che chiamiamo in questo modo perché è comune anche alle altre repubbliche dell’ex Urss. Non esiste in commercio un adattatore che renda compatibile questo sistema e quello italiano e/o quello europeo, ma è grazie ad un amico di Cesena, che spesso si reca in Ucraina, che siamo in possesso di un adattatore artigianale che permette la compatibilità con il nostro rifornimento. Tanto per generare invidia a chi ci segue: in Ucraina la benzina costa circa un euro, il diesel 85 centesimi, il gpl 55 centesimi e il metano 60 centesimi (però a metro cubo e non al kg!).

Va sottolineato che in Ucraina è assolutamente normale vedere auto, bus, mezzi militari, camion alimentati a metano o gpl. La cultura del combustibile gassoso è radicata negli anni ed esiste una rete molto sviluppata che in Occidente è praticamente sconosciuta.

Abbeverato in forma estremamente economica il nostro veicolo ci avviamo verso l’ultima difficile prova, il superamento dei Carpazi. Non sono le altitudini a preoccupare, ma piuttosto la pesante nevicata degli scorsi giorni. La strada è in buone condizioni e la neve è accumulata sui lati della carreggiata. La scelta d affrontare questa prova nelle ore più “calde” della giornata ci permette di evitare che la strada bagnata si trasformi in strada gelata. Vedere questa regione montuosa colorata di bianco in questa giornata soleggiata ci consente di ammirare dei panorami montani davvero gradevoli. Ed è questo uno dei motivi che ci spinge a fermarci per il pranzo, dopo appena 24 ore consecutive di viaggio: menù a base di piatti della tradizione locale con birre russe ed ucraine, anche analcoliche per chi deve ancora guidare.

Il cammino prosegue e quando arriviamo nei pressi dello scalcinato anello stradale che prova a migliorare la circolazione attorno a Leopoli siamo sorpresi dal buio. Ancora 80 km di fatica per raggiungere la cittadina di Brody, dove decidiamo di pernottare e finalmente riposare. Ormai siamo ad appena 450 chilometri da Kiev, obiettivo della giornata di domani.

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