Settimo giorno di viaggio – 3 gennaio 2015
Tantissimi mezzi militari sorpassati nella strada che conduce alla capitale
Con la partenza da Novovolynsk si conclude la parte solidale più sostanziosa del nostro viaggio. Le informazioni raccolte durante le nostre visite alle strutture sociali della città mineraria serviranno sicuramente per nuovi progetti di solidarietà in un futuro non troppo lontano. I volti delle persone incontrate durante questi quattro giorni ci rimarranno nella testa per molto tempo.
Non finisce l’aspetto ecologico del viaggio, i circa cinquecento chilometri che ci separano dalla capitale ucraina saranno coperti utilizzando solamente metano. Oggi non avremo il gelo a farci compagnia, visto che fin dal mattino la temperatura è al di sopra dello zero, ma le buche dell’asfalto in versione maxi pozzanghera a volte impossibili da schivare. Il termometro sale fino a 4 gradi durante la giornata regalandoci anche un’oretta di sole.
Proviamo a lavare il Peugeot Expert per rendere leggibili i nomi degli sponsor, ma la pulizia esterna del veicolo durerà appena una ventina di chilometri, giusto il tempo di documentare il rifornimento di metano nella periferia est di Volodimir-Volinsky. Si torna ad usare lo straordinario adattatore tra il sistema NGV1 e quello ex sovietico. Come in passato lo strumento è stato messo a disposizione dal nostro amico Oriano, grande viaggiatore ecologico nella tratta Romagna-Ucraina. Superato il classico scetticismo del tecnico della stazione di rifornimento si effettua il pieno di metano al prezzo di circa mezzo euro al metro cubo. I prezzi dei carburanti in Ucraina sono, calcolati in euro, circa 80 centesimi per benzina e gasolio e circa 45 centesimi per il Gpl. Non è un caso che le stazioni di Gaz (gpl) siano innumerevoli contro le circa 250 di metano ben disposte in tutto il territorio nazionale.
Si riparte verso Kiev, anzi, verso Kyiv se si usa la lingua ucraina, la sola presente nei cartelli stradali. Ovviamente le scritte sono in cirillico, ma l’alfabeto si distingue per alcune lettere da quello russo. I primi 200 chilometri di oggi sono su strade statali piene di vecchie Lada, furgoni e fuoristrada Uaz, camion Kamaz e neppure un veicolo con targa straniera se non un paio di polacchi ed un lituano. Proprio in questo tratto ci troviamo a sorpassare una colonna di circa una decina di vecchi bus con all’interno molti giovani diretti al fronte. Alcune facce sono preoccupate altre apparentemente baldanzose, la cosa che più ci impressiona è l’età media molto bassa dei ragazzi. Per un attimo pensiamo che con noi sulla nostra stessa strada ci sono circa 500 persone tra le quali, purtroppo, alcune torneranno indietro dentro una bara tornita dai colori giallo-blu. In questi momenti ci rendiamo conto della differenza tra nascere in un luogo o in un altro del nostro pianeta, della fortuna che ad oggi la nostra generazione ha avuto e del fatto che molti dei problemi quotidiani che abbiamo a casa nostra siano marginali di fronte a quello che ci poteva capitare se vivevamo qui. Sono i primi, ma non gli ultimi, mezzi militari che incontreremo oggi.
Da dopo la città di Rivne la nostra strada si ricongiunge a quella che percorremmo nel 2008 durante il viaggio che ci condusse fino a Pechino. Al posto della scalcinata strada comincia una bella “autostrada”, termine con il quale si indica una strada a 4 corsie, con spartitraffico, ma pure con attraversamenti a raso. A volte si deve condividere la corsia di marcia con trattori o carretti che ci aiutano a non superare il limite di 90 chilometri orari o quello di 60 nei pressi dei centri abitati. Poche buche ed un asfalto in buone condizioni ci permettono di guidare con serenità e tentando di non consumare inutilmente il metano.
Dopo l’ennesimo incontro con veicoli militari diretti sempre verso est decidiamo di fermarci per uno spuntino a base di vareniki e thè verde. Attorno alla strada, rispetto a sei anni fa, sono sorti come funghi piccoli ristorantini, bar, distributori di benzina che fanno dimenticare i tempi in cui si doveva portare in auto le taniche, vista la scarsità di punti di rifornimento. Invece, nonostante qualche miglioramento negli ultimi anni, torna il poco piacevole momento di discutere con la famelica polizia locale. Veniamo individuati da lontano probabilmente per la targa italiana, fermati, e attentamente esaminati assieme all’Expert. Ogni volta la fantasiosa polizia deve inventare qualcosa per estorcere denaro, la scelta ricade nel fatto che il nostro veicolo non è dotato di sedili posteriori, tolti da noi prima della partenza per creare spazio al carico di aiuti. Ormai abbiamo una certa esperienza nel gestire queste situazioni, come prima cosa si deve mantenere la calma, poi non cedere ai ricatti. Visto che non ci sono infrazioni reali e che quindi abbiamo ragione si decide di puntare tutto cercando di spiegare che non siamo businessmen o imprenditori, ma volontari che hanno portato doni per bambini e anziani in Ucraina. Citiamo la città dove siamo stati, il nome delle chiese e altre informazioni anche casuali e prive di senso. Alla fine il vorace poliziotto che parla con noi molla la presa. Gli facciamo perdere preziosi minuti e visto che deve sfruttare la giornata di tempo buono per fermare altre auto ci riconsegna i documenti e ci lascia ripartire.
Un’altra novità della cartellonistica che indica l’inizio di ogni città o paesino è la presenza dei colori nazionali giallo e blu, spesso dipinti a mano, che fino ad un anno fa erano assenti. Anche molte fermate dell’autobus sono colorate degli stessi colori e quasi ovunque si può notare murales con le scritte “Slava Ukraini” (gloria all’Ucraina). Tutto questo è frutto della fase storica che stiamo vivendo che vede un Paese cercare di affermare una propria identità. Se il giallo ed il blu sulla cartellonistica possono risultare anche piacevoli da osservare, tutto cambia quando ad essere ridipinti sono alcuni monumenti che ricordano la seconda guerra mondiale o addirittura la statua dell’orso Misha, mascotte delle Olimpiadi di Mosca ad 80 chilometri da Kiev. Con noi, a contemplare la vandalizzazione di uno degli orsi più noti del mondo, decine di soldati scesi da camion militari per una sosta fisiologica.
Il lungo attraversamento di mezza Ucraina si conclude a Kiev dopo oltre 500 chilometri percorsi in una delle traversate invernali più piacevoli che possiamo ricordare. Un’altra grande notizia è la resa dell’impianto a metano Bigas-Cavagna che tolti i 700 kg di carico passa ad una resa di 500 chilometri con un pieno con 20 kg di prezioso gas.
Dopo aver preso alloggio all’Hotel Slavutich, nella parte orientale di Kiev, ci dedichiamo ad una passeggiata nel centro cittadino che fino a pochi mesi fa ospitava i manifestanti della rivolta che ha portato l’Ucraina al centro della scena internazionale.
I comment whenever I especially enjoy a post on a siteor I have something to add to the conversation. Usually it’s a resultof the sincerness communicated in the article I browsed.And on this article Bend Oregon Elopement at Paulina Lake – Rosemary & Pine Photography.I was actually moved enough to leave a comment 😉 I do have some questions for you if you usually donot mind. Is it just me or do some of theresponses come across like they are coming frombrain dead individuals? 😛 And, if you are writing atother online sites, I would like to keep up with you. Could you make a listthe complete urls of your communal pages like your twitter feed, Facebook page or linkedin profile?My blog … subaru seattle
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