Ritorno a Volgograd – Giorno 3 sera

di
Una barricata in piazza Majdan.

Dopo esserci installati nel tardo pomeriggio all’hotel Slavutyč di Kiev, decidiamo di recarci in centro a vedere con i nostri occhi cosa succede nell’area di piazza dell’Indipendenza, nota come Majdan, cuore del presidio antigovernativo. Saggiamente decidiamo di lasciare il nostro Daily nel sicuro parcheggio dell’albergo e utilizziamo i mezzi pubblici, che come in tutti i paesi dell’ex Urss sono molto funzionali e anche economici (basti pensare che con l’equivalente di un euro acquistiamo le sei corse in metropolitana per l’andata e il ritorno). Già durante il viaggio incontriamo diversi manifestanti con bandiere ucraine o delle forze politiche di opposizione. Giunti alla fermata Teatral’na assistiamo ad un evento curioso che per certi aspetti ricorda un flash-mob. Ma probabilmente non si tratta di uno degli eventi estemporanei di moda in Occidente organizzati da ragazzi tramite social network: protagonisti sono infatti tantissimi anziani, alcuni dei quali in costumi tipici, che ballano abilmente musiche tradizionali suonate da musicisti di strada.

Usciamo all’aperto e ci imbattiamo nella prima barricata che blocca la via principale impedendo a veicoli, polizia e malintenzionati il transito verso piazza Majdan. Prima di recarci in quella direzione, tuttavia, ci rechiamo dalla parte opposta a sincerarci delle condizioni della statua di Lenin di Piazza del Mercato Bessarabia, recentemente abbattuta dai manifestanti: i resti del monumento sono ormai stati rimossi e sul piedistallo vuoto campeggiano due bandiere di forze politiche di estrema destra. Lì assistiamo ad un pesante diverbio tra alcuni dimostranti e un automobilista: quest’ultimo si ferma ad inveire contro i presenti (noi compresi!), accusandoli di essere dei vandali fascisti, ottenendo per tutta risposta un lancio di bottiglie contro il proprio veicolo.

Torniamo a ritroso verso piazza Majdan e man mano che ci avviciniamo troviamo sempre più gente accampata in una diffusa e organizzata tendopoli che occupa gran parte dell’area centrale della città. Numerose altre barricate, fatte di blocchi di neve ghiacciata, pali, casse di legno, cartelli, pneumatici e oggettistica varia, sbarrano tutte le vie di accesso alla piazza, comprese scalinate e sottopassaggi della metropolitana. I varchi nelle barricate, rigorosamente pedonali, sono presidiati da energumeni in tuta mimetica e spesso con il volto coperto. In piazza Majdan è in corso la conclusione della manifestazione odierna e su un palco si alternano comizi ed esibizioni di gruppi musicali.

Da piazza Majdan è paradossalmente ben visibile un grande arco illuminato che fa parte del complesso monumentale dedicato all’amicizia tra il popolo russo e quello ucraino: si tratta di una imponente realizzazione di epoca sovietica su un belvedere che domina il centro cittadino e il fiume Dnipr. Ci rechiamo sul posto e constatiamo che proprio intorno al monumento è stata realizzata una pista di pattinaggio su ghiaccio che (come ha tenuto a dirci lo zelante guardiano) aprirà i battenti tra pochi giorni.

Tornati in piazza Majdan ceniamo in un gradevole ristorante che offre una cucina legata alla tradizione dei Tatari di Crimea. Consumiamo una indispensabile minestra bollente, il borsch, utile ad attenuare il freddo, e il tipico risotto plov. Il pasto è accompagnato dalla proiezione, nel grande schermo del ristorante, di un documentario sulla Crimea che propone ininterrottamente le riprese da una camera-car della strada litoranea Sebastopoli – Jalta – Simferopoli. Si tratta di una strada che avevamo percorso lo scorso anno, nota per ospitare il più lungo marciapiede del mondo, che la accompagna per circa 150 chilometri, e una linea di filobus di ben 85 chilometri.

Prima di rientrare in albergo non possiamo fare a meno di entrare nel quartier generale dei manifestanti, installati all’interno del palazzo del municipio, occupato come altri palazzi pubblici. All’ingresso dobbiamo presentare i documenti e sottoporci a perquisizione, dopodiché possiamo accedere nei locali utilizzati anche come cucina, infermeria e dormitorio, oltre che come base operativa.
Anche qui notiamo come una componente ben visibile, forse la meglio organizzata, della manifestazione sia quella delle fazioni di estrema destra. Apparentemente è contraddittorio vedere i nazionalisti ucraini battersi per l’ingresso nell’Unione Europea, quando le forze di estrema destra all’interno dei Paesi Ue sono ostili alle politiche comunitarie. Come ci hanno spiegato alcuni interlocutori, la posizione di partiti come Svoboda o Udar è tuttavia più comprensibile nel momento in cui si interpreti la richiesta di adesione all’Unione Europea non tanto in sé, quanto come pretesto per svincolare l’Ucraina dalla storica influenza della Russia.

Va detto che la protesta non riguarda soltanto l’estrema destra, ma coinvolge anche forze politiche convintamente europeiste come il partito di ispirazione liberale legato all’ex premier Julia Tymošenko e una parte non trascurabile della società civile. Secondo alcune delle persone con cui abbiamo parlato all’interno del municipio, a supportare la protesta sarebbe l’80% circa della popolazione. Ciò non si è tuttavia tradotto in analoghe percentuali nelle elezioni suppletive per il Parlamento che si sono tenute proprio oggi in cinque distretti ucraini, e che hanno rispecchiato una divisione più o meno a metà tra le forze governative e quelle di opposizione.

Rientrati in albergo con una comoda combinazione di metropolitana e maršrutka (il tradizionale pulmino privato che copre capillarmente le vie delle cittadine ex sovietiche) riposiamo alcune ore in vista del prosieguo del viaggio.

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